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Gallery: Some examples of my work.
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Nice llittle hunter from 154cm steel, nickle silver pins, stabalized mesquite burl with red fiber liners.Completed about December 23, 2012.
This is the most poular knife I make. This one has a 4.75" 440c steel blade, pre-ban elephant ivory with a file worked tang. The hilt and sub-hilt are from 416 stainles with engraving. Sorry about my poor photo skills. made in late 1988 or early 1989.
Bowie with pre-ban elephant Ivory handle, 8" 440c steel blade, 416 stainles fittings. Engraving is mine. This was made in 1987.
4.5" 440c blade, 416 stainless fittings, pre-ban elephant ivory handle, 12k gold and jade spacers. Engraving by Ben Lane. Made in 1987.
440c steel, pre-ban elephant ivory handle with schrimshaw by Larry Thomson from Strathmore California, nickle silver fittings and sheath. Engraving is by an unknown engraver from Bakersfield California. Made in 1986.
Nice small hunter from 440c steel, nickle silver fittings and some nice stag. The engraving is by an unknown engraver from Bakersfield California. Made in 1985
A rare dagger with an 8" 440c steel, nickle silver fitting and a fluted Ebony handle. This knife was made in the late 70's and is the first one to have a fluted handle.

To place an order, send an e-mail to steve@slterrillknives.com. Your name will be placed on my waiting list and when it makes it to the top I will contact you to finalize details; you may change/revise your order until production begins. No deposit is required for most items, but other collaborators may require one such as for an engraver; their deposit will be handled per their requirements. When your piece is completed you will be notified of the amount due, after payment is made it will be shipped by the method agreed upon. Credit cards are accepted, please contact me to make purchase.

Upon receiving your order please contact me by e-mail at steve@slterrillknives.com so I will know it arrived safely. You have three (3) days to examine your piece to determine it is to your satisfaction, after three (3) days all sales are finial. Should you decide to return it within the three (3) day inspection time period, before shipping, notify me by e-mail at steve@slterriillknives.com. Upon recite, the problem will be rectified or money refunded less the cost of shipping and insurance, method of resolution shall be determined by myself. Further restrictions will apply if the order shows signs of abuse or alteration. 


I take great care with and pride in my workmanship and the materials I use to create my knives are carefully chosen; if a problem ever develops with your knife I will repair or replace it at my discretion. Natural materials are prone to shrink and crack, while I take every step I can to prevent it, I simply can not guaranty they will not. Repairs resulting from causes other than my workmanship will require payment in full including shipping and insurance before it is returned by agreed upon method. Any knife returned to me with obvious signs of abuse or neglect will result in my asking some serious question in regard to the reason for failure. Remember a knife is meant to cut, it is not a pry bar, ax or any other sort of tool; any such misuse will void the warranty. I stand behind my workmanship until I cease production. It is your responsibility to maintain your purchase.


I use both forging and stock removal in my craft and all knives are tested for edge retention and durability. My knives come with a hand rubbed blade as standard fair; made with a forged carbon steel blade, 416 stainless guard and California Black Walnut handle. There are several choices for the blade steel, guard and handle material; if there is something special you want I will be happy to consider it. L6 has been my preferred steel since the mid-80’s, it holds an excellent edge, and over time develops an attractive patina, and while not classified as a “stainless steel”, it is very corrosion resistant due to the high nickel content.

Knives made from “stainless steel” are by stock removal only. I personally dislike the use of the term “stainless steel”, “stain resistant” or “corrosion resistant” would be better descriptors. After 40 years at this I have encounter many “stainless steel” knives that have corroded. This again is where you are involved; you must take care of your investment!


When storing your knife for extended periods of time, never store the knife in it’s sheath. Clean it thoroughly with warm water, dry with a clean soft cloth, apply a coat of light oil, grease or wax of your choice, wrap in a moisture bearer such as wax or parchment paper and store in a cool dry area. Periodically take it out of storage for inspection (enjoyment) and re-application of the preferred protectorant. The blade is not the only part of the knife that needs attention, please do not forget to lavish some love on the handle as well! Ivories will need some light oil applied, some good information can be found on the Custom Knife Collectors Association’s web site. 

After use in the field, wipe off excess debris before returning the knife to its sheath. Once you are back at camp clean the knife with warm water, dry thoroughly and apply a light coat of oil. Once you are home follow the steps listed above. This is also a good time to take care of the edge so it is ready to go the next time you want to use it.

Maintaining the edge is also part of caring for your knife. You will need an assortment of stones in various grits (coarse, medium and fine). There is a large assortment to choose from; the important thing is to take time and learn how to use the system you have selected. Practice on some lesser quality knives before working and the more expensive ones, kitchen knives are a good choice and will put you in good standing with your significant other!